So, yes we definitely needed our long underwear yesterday. We had a wonderful surprise in store: a call from John Huston (Global Warming 101 base camp manager) telling us to be out on the ice at four o'clock sharp for a short trip with Simon Qamanirq and his sled dog team. It was 4:06. After rushing down without time to grab extra layers (thank goodness for under armor!) we met up with Simon and his team.
Simon's qamutik (the sled; it has a long raised bed) had a layer of caribou skins and was hitched at the front to the harnesses. The harnesses themselves are made of seal skin cut into long strips and are linked to the lines by walrus bone toggles. They are beautiful and practical. (See Arctic Speak for some good pictures!)
Yet nothing could compare to the feeling of traveling on the sled. The 11 dog team pulled Jeff, Mr. Johnson, Chris, Jason (from National Geographic), Simon and myself along with the big heavy qamutik. The sound was incredible; the snow made a sharp sh-sh-shing as the runners cut neatly through it.
The snowy landscape seemed like the moving backgrounds on old movie sets and cartoons. Looking ahead we saw the fluffy plumes of dog tails and haunches, steadily trotting ahead. Simon, between yelling commands, answered all of Johnson's questions which ranged from "Why don't the dogs get tangled in the lines?" to "How many dog teams are there in town?" to "How do you make a seal skin harness?" It was impressive how smooth the system worked; the dogs were well-trained and knew what they were doing. And we barely glimpsed a drop of the knowledge that Simon has gathered and applied in his life. We are fortunate to have had such an experience with such a knowledgable person. And, indeed, we were fortunate to be wearing our long underwear--although I have to admit the warmest parts of my body were the ones in contact with the caribou skins!
-Allison (pictured here with her new best friend)
11 comments:
Ah Ha. Now I'm seeing something that you were keeping secret Jeff? I know there is more and more.
Alli--happy to see you are making friends! What an incredible outing, sha-shinging across the snow with someone as experienced as Simon. I am SO grateful Kelly & Clark got your long underwear covered with a Betty Rides Rock Candy parka. Is the seal skin like rawhide? Is it braided? How fast does a qamutik sha-shing? The sled-side view of the dogs is awesome!
Yoooo-Hoooo? Joseph, Dalen Where are you? You missed the dinner and a movie. Now you missed the ride on the dog sled. What are you doing? Also curious - - What are some of the global warming effects that you guys are seeing and hearing about besides the ice melt?
Hey Viper, I'd like to see our boys a little more too as being part of the team is pretty important. So, where are you guys? Gees, I know you dont have a Betty Candy parka,Dalen, but I think you can still dog sled. Keep up the good work, we'd like to hear ALL the voices of Minnesota here, especially that scott dude from up north, heard they were a little slow ;)
Hey, another comment. we have 60 degree weather right now, with the possibilities of 80's in a day or so. Any quick changes going on there that might be felt? If the people can only hunt 4 months of the year now, how the heck are they managing to live the other months when they counted on 5 more months of hunting? How can they survive without the hunting or are they hunting something different? Is this causing a lot of what we call here "seasonal disorder" among at least the older generation of people? Are there more illnesses now due to this change?
Don't worry about Dalen and Joe! They've been out on the land for the past 36 hours! Their host Andy took them out last night to finish building their igloo to sleep in. We've all been having great experiences just not necessarily together as a whole group.
Mum- I agree! My pretty little parka is just lovely; I've even gotten compliments from a few of the little girls here in town. Also, the seal hide for the harnesses for each line is one LONG strip. Simon says he made them by cutting back and forth to get the right length. He also said that there are particular methods to make it flexible, too.
As for speed: the 11 dogs were pulling 1000+ lbs (which by the way is A LOT!) so it was a slow but steady pace. We've seen some people get going pretty darn fast though. Those dogs love to run and they are born for it!
Satcy-For the bit on global warming, you'll actually want to talk to Dalen and Jeff. They've been collecting stories from the elders all this past week. yesterday Jeff and I talked to Lukie's wife Marie and she commented on the changing temperatures in the winters. But she also said that her elders had warned them about this when they were children so she wasn't surprised to see it happen.
Penny-We haven't heard anything particular about quick changes. But we can ask. Also, the seasons play a major role in life up here. Maybe we'll do a blog on it later to further develop what you said. It would be an interesting comparison.
Thanks Everyone!!
Allison
The cowboys made rawhide reins for their horses--a long-time tradition passed down from many generations of Califorinians long before CA was a surfer state. My grandfather taught me how to stretch a cow-hide out to dry. Once dry we would scrape the hair off and trim the edges so we had roughly a circular shape to the dried hide. Then, my grandfather would take a pocket knife and start cutting one long strip about 1/4 of an inch around and around the hide. After that we soaked the strips is soapy water. Then we would tie 6 strands together and braid reins with fancy little braided knots along the way. Tell Simon he must be an Inuit cowboy! Thanks for the updates. I am sure you are all having incredible experiences as eye-witnesses from MN.
mum- great story, shows us how connected we really are no matter where we live,and the skills those before us had to use to make a living and to survive. Its unfortunate that so much gets lost with time, its so valuable to preserve and remember. Thank you.
Wow, so Dalen and Joe have become true Anthropologists this week, good for you guys! Im sure you're enjoying it, but it takes really intelligent, perceptive and sensitive people to be able to discuss such delicate and pertinent stories with people of a different culture. Not to mention a lot of work! I guess we can excuse a lack of direct communication on behalf of you spending your time really getting to know the issues surrounding the community, and of course speaking with the elders is an honor that will give you the best information. I'm sure when you get back, all the time you're spending being with the community will pay off with all the good information you'll have to share. Of course, the break dancing and snow-wall-jumping stories will be fun! Im just glad to know that the passion you've conveyed these last few months about addressing global warming is really taking root in your visit.
So how was the night in the Igloo? Did you two build it? How was that after spinning on your head all afternoon Joe? haha...Remember that if you guys want to thaw out after this trip, you've got a place to stay down here. Global warming is actually becoming a huge issue down here as well, it could be interesting for you guys to look into the differences and the effects taking hold...sorry, no dog sledding here, but it would definately provide another perspective.
So, back to work guys, keep mixing it up with lots of ice and snow games, get to know those students who may be visiting "down South" Minnesota and as I can see you're doing, dont forget to take advantage of learning as much as you can from the people there.
penny--what's really sad is the rate of speed such traditions get lost. I was so excited over the seal skin harnesses because it was like a part of my past resurfaced. For more generations than I even know my family made a living on horseback. My dad was the first to do something else. What I learned is only in the back recesses of memory and has no relevance to today. In fact, none of my kids even know how to ride a horse. Our Baffin 5 are heroes to me. They are up there at least recording and witnessing cultural ways that otherwise might pass by without the rest of the world even knowing it passed. What they are sharing with us does remind us of the connections we truly have. It's an incredible honor Dalen and Joe have to record the elders. I think as a team they are all bringing their own strengths to the group, extending what they are there to do and learn.
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